Lee × Nigel Cabourn ‘OX’ed Silver’ — 1930s Lee 101 Meets European Workwear
Created to celebrate the 101st anniversary of Lee’s iconic 101, first introduced in 1925, this collaboration brings together more than a century of American workwear history with the craftsmanship and archival approach of Nigel Cabourn ‘OX’ed Silver’.
The project began when Lee approached ZUKI, designer of OX’ed Silver, with the idea of combining the heritage, archives and expertise of both brands in a special collection.
At the heart of the collaboration is BRURRY DENIM, an original fabric developed over approximately 28 months. Inspired by the colour, texture and character of denim produced a century ago, it combines modern manufacturing techniques with skilled craftsmanship to recreate the depth and irregularity of early denim.
Part of the “Railwayman 1925–1939” series, the 101 combines elements of the 1930s Lee 101 with vintage European work trousers, reinterpreted through the distinctive perspective of Nigel Cabourn ‘OX’ed Silver’.
The trousers are made from BRURRY DENIM LOT-2600. The indigo yarn is hank-dyed and then treated with tannin and an iron mordant, producing a deep, complex colour along with a rugged, uneven surface and pronounced texture. The fabric has also been designed to develop distinctive fading and character with years of wear.
The silhouette is based on an exclusive Nigel Cabourn ‘OX’ed Silver’ pattern, with generous room through the thighs and knees and a slightly higher rise. A V-slit at the back, inspired by traditional European work trousers, allows greater freedom of movement.
Historical details run throughout the construction. The 1930s home-plate-shaped back pockets feature deliberately exposed selvedge at their ends, recreating a period manufacturing irregularity found on vintage garments. Other details include a rear cinch, period-style belt-loop construction, thread rivets and a watch pocket.
The buttons are specially finished to reproduce the appearance of naturally aged vintage hardware, while collaboration-exclusive details include a house mark, white label, hair-on-hide leather patch and union ticket. Flat-felled seams are stitched with two different shades of khaki thread, another subtle reference to traditional workwear construction.
Available in Indigo, the 101 is built to showcase the exceptional ageing and fading characteristics of LOT-2600 denim.
More than a century of Lee history meets the craftsmanship of OX’ed Silver, creating a new interpretation of vintage workwear built to develop its own character over time.
Please note: The garment will shrink approximately 1–2 cm after the first wash. The exact amount may vary depending on washing conditions.
